Hydrolyzate of Cetraria polysaccharides
Hydrolyzate of Icelandic moss polysaccharides (Cetraria icelandica)
Hydrolyzate is a product of enzymatic breakdown of complex molecules - proteins, carbohydrates, their derivatives, which in the macromolecular state are unsuitable for use in cosmetics, into oligo- and monomers in the presence of water and with the release of water. Thus, hydrolysates are multicomponent water-based actives in a bioavailable form.
Due to the high content of moisture-retaining polysaccharide components in their composition, algae and lichens have always been promising sources of effective skin moisturizers. Many species are adapted to survive in extreme conditions, therefore they accumulate valuable minerals, highly active substances, UV protectors, antiseptics and antibiotics.
The Cetraria Icelandic lichen or Icelandic moss is one of these unique symbionts of fungus and algae - well known as a medicinal raw material both in folk medicine and in pharmacology.
Cetraria is widespread throughout temperate latitudes, but prefers ecologically clean regions. Its thalli can be found in pine forests, on open plateaus, on the soil or on the bark of old stumps and trees. Found in the Carpathians.
Depending on the time of collection, Icelandic moss can contain from 30 to 80% of the carbohydrates isolichenin and lichenin, up to 5% of lichen acids, the most famous of which is usnic acid. If starch-like lichenin provides cetraria extracts with gelling qualities and nutritional value, then bitter-tasting acids provide tonic and antimicrobial properties. Cetraria is able to accumulate iodine from the air, contains iron, manganese, copper, ascorbic acid, vitamins B1, B2, B12, provitamin A.
Hydrolyzate of cetraria polysaccharides in cosmetics (serums, creams, gels, tonics) is mainly used as a moisturizing additive, anti-aging active, with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, but little antimicrobial activity (since lichen acids are not water-soluble).
Can be used as a prebiotic, as it contains oligosaccharides, glucose, galactose.
Envelops damaged skin, has a soothing, wound-healing effect, is good in post-epilation products, foams and shaving gels.
Icelandic moss hydrolyzate is indicated for dry, chapped skin; can be used in winter cosmetics to protect the skin in dry air conditions in heated rooms.
Recommended dosages: 2-5%
INCI: Hydrolyzed Cetrarium (Cetraria islandica) Polysaccharides
Ingredients: purified water, glycerin, hydrolyzed Icelandic moss polysaccharides (cetraria), preservative phenoxyethanol (euxyl)
Appearance: liquid with a solids content of at least 5.0%
Solubility: in water in any concentration
pH 5.0-6.5